“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” - Aldous Huxley
The title suggests that I am contrasting the two countries. And that in this newsletter I might choose between the two. Which one do I like best? Where would I rather live? Or which one has the friendliest inhabitants? Where would I rather be? Which cycling routes are most beautiful, the one through Norway or the one through Sweden? Or the easiest...? Well, the last question is easy to answer: the routes through Sweden are the easiest. In Norway, they say: Sweden is flat. And then I raise my eyebrows. Now I have cramps in my eyebrows, because they also say that southern Norway is flat. I still want to have a discussion with the Norwegians about the definition of 'flat'.
That the Swedish routes are easier, I would dare to state as fact. The mountains in Sweden are lower and less steep. In addition, there are more roads where you actually cycle on a flat road for longer periods (= several kilometres). In Norway, that never lasts long, or you're already going up again. Or down. Also, Swedish gravel roads are of slightly better quality than Norwegian ones. So yes, Swedish cycling routes are easier.
All other questions I cannot actually answer. I am regularly asked them (actually only by Dutch people), but I am always unable to answer. I know Norway better because I have been there more than in Sweden. I also know a lot more people in Norway than in Sweden. But I love being in both countries equally, and I love both countries and would also like to live in both countries. In both countries, I am welcomed with the same warmth and hospitality. And in both countries I have friends for life.
And the latter is what you experience when things are not going well. When you get sick...
Lars and Kristina in Sweden are one-in-a-million. I stayed there until Wednesday. Then I felt well enough to continue travelling. Remy had offered to pick me up if I stayed sick longer, but fortunately that was not necessary. I'm not fully recovered yet, but feel well enough to move on again, and I'm doing so at my own pace. Unfortunately, my intention to publish the St. Olavsleden cycle guide in a few months' time has stranded.
I had originally planned to cycle small sections of the Swedish part of the route (the Norwegian part is done), but as I had some time before I got sick, and was tired of driving, I wanted to cycle the whole route again. It was not to be. It is now two weeks later, and I have neither the time nor the energy to cycle the route and I really need to. There are still some uncertainties and I went through them with Putte Eby, the coordinator of this route, last Tuesday. I could make the guide with his help (he suggested that too) and also with the help of test cyclists, but then there are parts I haven't cycled and what I will then continue to doubt about. That doesn't feel right, because I want to be able to justify it.
When I left for Trondheim on Wednesday, I drove the route as far as I could (which, fortunately, is not possible everywhere) and everywhere I went I had another 'O-yes' moment. I am incredibly looking forward to cycling the route next year. And Remy might want to come along, he said! I am slowly trekking south by car via Trondheim, and along the way I am staying with people I know well and feel familiar with. The reason I have no more time to cycle the St. Olavsleden, is the last project for this summer. In mid-August I am expected to join Ria Warmerdam in southern Sweden, but I will tell you more about that in the next newsletter.
East of Trondheim is Stjørdal, and this is where Janne Sollie lives. She is the pilgrim leader in Stiklestad, the place where Olav Olav breathed his last breath. Janne is responsible for the Norwegian section of the St. Olavsleden. If you look at the map, you will see that about three quarters of the way goes through Sweden and one quarter through Norway. I arrived at Janne's place on Wednesday and stayed there until Friday (yesterday). On Thursday I drove up and down to Trondheim for two meetings, one of which resulted in nice news for the enthusiastic Olav travellers among our readers: from the end of September/beginning of October Ria and I will also be selling souvenirs in our webshop! If you are curious, you can have a look at the Pilegrimsleden webshop. We will soon be selling a part of the products as well.
As we were leaving, Janne surprised me with beautiful exhibition material! When Ria and I go to the fairs in the winter, we will have a new banner and now also signage for cyclists!
I am staying with Joar and Magni in Voll (100 km south of Trondheim) for the second time this summer. I arrived here yesterday and will ride further south tomorrow. For those who are by now dizzy from all the laps I ride, here is an overview map (click or tap to enlarge). I started in Kristiansand.
1. The coastal pilgrims path: Kristiansand - Bergen - Trondheim
2. Gudbrandsdalsleden: Trondheim - Oslo
3. On the Way to St. Olav: Oslo - Selånger
4. St. Olavsleden: Selånger - Trondheim
5. Gudbrandsdalsleden: Trondheim - Oslo (I am now on my way to Oslo for the second time).
And next week, I'm heading to southern Sweden.
And so I will be in Norway twice this summer and in Sweden for the second time from mid-August. And no, I can't and won't choose between the two countries.
Here I have written a newsletter more often:
