6th stage: Donau-Radweg
Dates: July 22nd to July 26th, 2010
Distance: 296 km.
Click on this sign for photos
An der schönen blauen Donau
E-mail of Saturday morning, July 24th, 2010
Servus!
That’s what they say in Austria and Bavaria instead of good morning. So now you know. I had never heard it myself. As you can see, I haven’t yet melted, rolled off a mountain or fallen into the Moldau or Donau! Meanwhile, I’m back in Germany again, where it is raining cats and dogs at the moment. The night before last, after another few days of 35 degrees, there was a terrific thunderstorm. It lasted five hours, with tremendous bangs. It came from every direction and got caught between the mountains. Luckily, yesterday was dry again and a lot cooler, 25 degrees. But while putting the tent up it started raining again and, with a short interval, it went on raining and it still is. I am now sitting in a library in the German town, Straubing, on the Donau.
The last mail I sent was from Kostelec in the Czech Republic. That evening, I had put up my tent carelessly, in a hurry because of the oncoming rain. At 1 o’clock at night, I felt my feet getting wet and when I wanted to get my glasses (always the first thing I do when I wake up, in the dark or not), I had to fish them out of a puddle.
I was immediately wide awake, grabbed my ‘canoe-bag’, a waterproof bag that I always have on the back of my bike, stuffed my slightly wet sleeping bag, my book and my torch in it, rolled up my camping mattress and, under my mini-umbrella, ran through the mud to the ‘Hunting Lodge’. There are the library, the computer and chairs and tables in it. I pushed those to the side and rolled my mattress out again on the wooden floor. I hung the sleeping bag up and ran through the rain again to the toilet building, where there was a clothes-horse with my now dry towel and shirt. I must say, the library was the ideal place to spend the night (I’ve never before slept in a library before ...). As I couldn’t sleep anyway, I spent an hour at the computer and then read. The next day, together with the Dutch couple that was still there, was spent lazily in the library.
From Kostelec the route became more and more beautiful and, instead of alone, the three of us went together. And I even enjoyed it. Since Peter and Greta are also going to Passau, we decided to carry on together. I had, however, suggested that, if any of us wanted to go on in their original formation, we should say that truthfully. I must say, I didn’t know it would be such fun! It went swimmingly and it was very nice together, in spite of the fact that we are very different. Together we finished the Moldau-Radweg. The rest of the route got more and more beautiful, especially after České Budejoviče. There we cycled constantly beside the Moldau, which didn’t mean it was flat. Oh no, just the opposite. But beautiful! Especially the little town of České Krumlov and the border with Austria.
Yes, Austria ... I’d never been there (either) but I certainly want to go back. Not only because it’s so lovely, but also because of the people. What a warm bath after the Czech Republic! The Czechs didn’t think we were worth taking notice of and they were often rude. No, give me the Austrians any time. Everybody we met greeted us with Grüss Gott or Servus. After one night in Austria, we came back to Germany on Thursday (Passau), where our ways parted. Yesterday I missed Peter and Greta but now I’m glad to be on my own again. I have far more contacts on the way and, although we gave each other every possible freedom and felt we could make use of it, this does feel freer.
Incidentally, at the first camp-site when I was on my own again, I did something unheard of. I called the owner a dirty old man, in Dutch. He thought he’d worked it all out: you’re alone + I’m alone = we’re together. He continued to make very objectionable remarks, which made me call him dirty old man, he couldn’t understand it anyway. Next morning I was on my bike already at 7.15, away from the place. It made me sick.
Now I’m in Straubing, where I arrived yesterday just before it rained. This morning I decided to stay an extra day because of the bad weather. But that’s not the only reason, it’s also very nice here. On the short-stay field where my tent is, some very nice people arrived yesterday. First an American couple (the first time I’ve met cycling Americans), Jacques and Charlene. Very nice people from Florida (You’re welcome! It’s very easy to cycle there!). Then Jan form Hoofddorp in Holland came. He lent me the route guide to the ‘Limes cycle route’. This follows the borders of the ancient Roman Empire and that is the route I was planning to do.
When I arrived, a German father and his son were already there. He told me that he had cycled with another son last week. He turned out to have six children. “So you have another four weeks to go?” I asked. “No”, he laughed, ‘I’ll leave it at that now, as the weather forecast is not too good and it must remain enjoyable, especially with children”. Yes, I can see that.
I’ll leave it at that, but I must tell you about the remark of this holiday: while I was putting up my tent on the site in Kostelec, a little Dutch boy of about 10 came and watched: “Oh, is that for the dog? Handy!”
So I’m living in a ‘doggie-bag’...
Greetings, love, Gea
After writing this e-mail, someone else came cycling onto our field that evening. A young woman. I looked to see if there was anyone behind her but no: the first woman solo-cyclist I came across on this holiday! I looked at her in astonishment: she was soaking wet but that, of course, was not so strange. No, what I found so strange was that she was wearing jeans. Of all clothing, jeans are the most unpractical for a cycling holiday. I concluded that she was probably not an experienced cyclist. And then her tent! Her bike functioned as tent-poles, over which she hung a tarpaulin. The other end of this was tethered by tent-pegs to the ground. I admit, I was a voyeur but it was so enthralling that I secretly looked now and again ...
But best of all: she turned out to be American! As I couldn’t stifle my curiosity, I went and talked to her. She had just finished her studies and her teacher had advised her to cycle round Europe for a few months. She had started in Holland (That was sóóó great! All those bicycle lanes! Amazing!) and was on her way to Budapest. I wonder how she got on!
7nd stage: Althmühl-Radweg
Dates: July 26th to July 28th, 2010
Distance: 229½ km.
Click on this sign for photos
8th stage: Liebliches Taubertal, der Klassiker (Charming Taubertal, the Classic)
Dates: July 29th and July 30th, 2010
Distance: 113½ km.
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9e etappe: Main-Radweg
Dates: July 30th to August 1st, 2010
Distance: 150 km.
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Greetings from eh... Japan?!
E-mail of Saturday evening, July 31, 2010
Dear all,
I admit, the title is confusing. As you know, I have some connection with Japan so I have now come to Seiji and Yuko in Frankfurt and am staying the night at the Shumei Centre, of which Seiji is the director. I will keep it short, as my bed is inviting ...
From my last e-mail till yesterday, I’ve had a lot of rain. There was so much daily, that I once even had to sleep in a Youth Hostel. I was in Rothenburg an der Tauber and it was already 18 hrs. It was pouring when I suddenly saw a Youth Hostel. Then it’s not so hard to make a choice.
Luckily, since yesterday the sun has been shining again and today it was pleasantly warm. From tomorrow, I shall cycle to Mainz and then along the Rhine back to Holland. I now really feel I’m on my way back. Maybe I’ll be home in about ten days’ time. For a moment, I thought of making another detour, from Koblenz along the Moezel and then, via the Our (or something), through Luxemburg and Belgium to the Netherlands. I’d be alright for time but my steel horse smells the stable. As does its rider ...
Greetings from Gea
10th stage: Rhein-Radweg
Dates: August 1st to August 7th, 2010
Distance: 476 km
Click on this sign for photos
Veni Vidi Fietsie! (I came, I saw, I cycled!)
E-mail of Saturday, August 7th, 2010
Dear All,
Before you accuse me of getting too intimate because I write dear all: in Germany, or maybe the entire Germanic language region, one is often addressed as ‘dear ...’; dear customers, dear citizens, dear visitors. Apparently you are always dear to someone. And when you write a letter in English, you put dear ..., though it really means loved one. In any case, I didn’t know how to address you but have now solved the problem.
But now something new! I’m home again! I came, I saw, I cycled! I can hardly believe it myself, but I really am. The last few days, I pedalled quite hard and even broke my personal record with a distance of 128 km. in a day. Yes, that was quite a feat.
After Frankfurt, I stayed at a camp-site twice more before reaching Bonn. There I stayed for two days with friends from Zeist, the Van Oerle family (and visited Beethoven’s birthplace) and after Bonn I was able to stay the night with with Toru and Kasia in Düsseldorf . Gradually I was able to get used to sleeping in a normal bed, having social contacts, eating at a table ...
Then I had the choice of a camp-site 20 km. further on or one 95 km. away. I chose the latter, which was in Xanten. I left there this morning at 8.15, thinking of looking for a camp-site after passing the Dutch border. But when I got to Dodewaard at 16 hrs., I realised that Zeist wasn’t really that far away. So ...
On arrival, instead of a cold shower (my geyser had broken down before I left), a hot bath! Literally. As soon as Maarten and Els heard I was back in the country, they invited me to dinner, where I was also able to scrub myself clean (I must ring and see if the new boiler can come sooner than August 23rd...).
So I’m now sitting at home with my own computer, instead of in a tent in the rain, somewhere on the shores of the Waal or wherever. Lovely! And what a big house I have! Goodness me. My kitchen feels like a ballroom and I had forgotten I had so many books. And just before I left, I’d been given a nice lamp by my youngest brother and his wife. Also forgotten ... It’s rather nice, living here, when I look around.
By the way, a little less of Gea came back: I left at least a kilo in every country. I even thought my head had got bigger, but that was because I’d put my helmet on back-to-front and that didn’t fit.
Well, before going to bed, some figures for those interested:
- Total distance: 3621 km.
- Number of countries: 5. Namely: Holland, Germany, Poland, Czech Republic and Austria. Though Poland was only for an hour.
- Steepest climb: 16% (Austria), unless there was a steeper one somewhere secretly).
- Number of marriage offers: 3
- Number of refusals: 3
- Number of books read (not counting route guides and tourist information): 4. Yes truly, only 4, I counted them again!
- Number of flats: 0
- Other bicycle repairs: 0, except for a few small ones, easy to solve.
- Bodily ailments: 1 sprained an ankle (in the Czech Republic, I slipped off the pavement, via the kerb, onto the road), 1 deep cut on my lower leg (yesterday, caught by the chain, a much too long and nasty story), large bump on my forehead (kitchen cupboard at a camp-site, a week ago) and a bit of ‘flu (two weeks ago). And ... Saddle Sores. With capital letters. Only after Prague did it get a bit better but it kept coming back. Anyway, I’m very glad I got home safe and sound.
I hope to see you all again soon!
Greetings and love from Gea
