You can map out a cycling route by actually riding it. That seems like the most logical way. However, you can also fly over it in a helicopter. Now that’s efficient!
How a mistake in one of my Facebook posts led to a helicopter ride
It’s been a while since the last newsletter. I just haven’t had the peace, time, or opportunity to write one. Late at night, in bed, I’ll often jot down a quick post on Facebook, and that’s about it. Not every day either, sometimes I’m just too tired.
I usually write a bit about the places I’ve been that day, and now and then I try to include a few facts or points of interest. And even though it’s “just” Facebook, it still needs to be accurate.
I get my information from the website pilegrimsleden.no, from what people tell me, or from local information boards. I assume they’re reliable. Once I start working on the actual guidebook, I’ll consult as many sources as possible before putting anything in print, and then I’ll have it reviewed by the relevant experts. But a few days ago, someone pointed out an error in one of my posts.
I had written something about an Olav’s cross at Korssund, which the cycling route passes right by. The info board there said that there are three large Olav’s crosses on Norway’s west coast, and I included that in my post, along with the locations of all three. However, I quickly got messages from Norwegians saying that this number was incorrect, there are actually quite a few more. The first to point this out was Anne Hopland, from the historic site of Gulatinget, one of the key places along the coastal route. And as it happened, I was already planned to visit her the next day.
A thousand years ago, before Norway had a parliament, judges, or courts, it had the ting. These were gatherings where people came together to make laws, pass judgements, and make decisions. The ting was essentially the forerunner of Norway’s modern legal system. Gulating was one of the oldest and largest assemblies in Scandinavia, active from around 900 to 1300 AD. The Gulatingslov (Gulating Law) is the oldest preserved collection of laws in the Nordic countries. This is just the very short version, there’ll be more about this later in the guide and on the website.
And fittingly, it was at Gulating that something was set right: Anne told me about the many Olav’s crosses scattered along Norway’s west coast.
How did I come up with the number three? Well, that’s what it said on the official information board next to that particular Olav’s cross.
So the verdict was: it wasn’t my fault, the board had the wrong information.
Anyway, that same day I actually saw two more Olav’s crosses. There was a stretch of the route I hadn’t cycled yet, and it passed right by Gulatinget and the two Olav’s crosses in Eivindvik.
But now, the helicopter ride! I told Anne that the next day I’d be continuing by car toward Bergen. “That means you’ll drive past Dalsøyra,” she said. “There’s a Multiflytreff there tomorrow, a little aviation event with para-gliders and small planes. I’ll be camping at the site, you should definitely stop by! And, you can take a helicopter ride!”
I have to admit, I had my doubts. My schedule is pretty tight, and I’m not exactly the kind of person who usually attends air shows.
But I had never been in a helicopter before—and even though I’m slightly afraid of heights, it sounded pretty exciting. The drive to Bergen wouldn’t take long, so I had enough time. “Something different from pilgrims for a change!” Anne added with a smile.
And so, the next day, I drove to Bergen via Dalsøyra. Anne immediately arranged with the organizers that I could go first, since I was just passing through. And believe it or not, they gave me the flight as a gift!
And it was amazing! I flew over part of the cycling route I had ridden the day before. I saw the charming harbour village of Eivindvik and the key historical site of Gulatinget from above. The coastal landscape, dotted with tiny islands, was breathtaking, and I was genuinely moved.
All because of a small mistake in a Facebook post…
Even more from above
The past two weeks have been packed with highlights, both literally and figuratively.
Puffins on Runde. For the guidebook, I’m also working on a few extra loops or side trips that aren’t directly part of the pilgrim route, but that could be fun and varied additions. One of them will be a cycling trip to the bird island of Runde. Both the route to the island and the island itself are spectacular.
As for the route, just check out the photos; they speak for themselves. And on Runde, you can see puffins! Between May and the end of July, starting around 7 p.m., the puffins come ashore after a day of fishing at sea. It starts slowly, with just one or two here and there, but as the evening goes on, more and more arrive. It was absolutely magical to witness.
By the way, I didn’t just spot puffins, I also spotted a lot of birdwatchers.
Watching birdwatchers:
Photo's of the route:
On the way to Runde, I caught sight of a gallery out of the corner of my eye and, curious as I am (I really like galleries...), I went in. I was pleasantly surprised. What stunning and fascinating photos of Runde and the surrounding islands! I struck up a conversation with the passionate photographer, Kristoffer (meirenntusenord.com) and it turned out we even had a mutual acquaintance! Honestly, Norway sometimes feels like a small village. And to my surprise, I later recognized some of the photos as I continued cycling toward the island of Runde. See, for example, the photo of the white house. The gallery is definitely worth a short stop on your way to Runde.
Bergen. And now I’m in Bergen, the city where it rains about 200 days a year. But not right now. It’s been scorching hot for a few days, around 30 degrees Celsius. I’m staying at the Montana youth hostel, which is perched high on the slopes of Mount Ulriken. From here, I have a stunning view over the city of Bergen. I’m currently mapping out another extra route, a city trip. I was hoping that, from this height, I could just sketch out a route.
But in the end, I got on my bike anyway. The loop isn’t finished yet, I’ll continue tomorrow. It’s going to involve a lot of climbing. But wow, what spectacular climbs they are!
I still have so much more to share from the past two weeks, but that’ll come soon, otherwise this newsletter will be too long, and I’ll end up going to bed far too late. Later more!
